TOOLS FOR THE TRADE
DAISUKE KAMIDE OF TEÄTORA
When Daisuke Kamide started his label TEÄTORA, he sought to redefine what we know as "workwear" by making clothes for the present-day desk jockey. Through an exacting vision and rigorous testing of the garments against one's own daily life, Kamide has managed to provide innovative clothing that can run parallel with the radical changes that are occurring with demands of the modern workplace.
A key feature of TEÄTORA's garments are the ability to become packable and deliver a complete wardrobe that is dynamic enough for indoor/outdoor transitioning, while also being sharply tailored and designed with function in mind. Visiting their headquarters in Tokyo, the designer divulges his practical and philosophical perceptions of his label and how TEÄTORA is unexpectedly retooling what we know as workwear today.
IS TEÄTORA A PRECURSOR TO THE HUMAN UNIFORM?
The development of the business attire category is truly worthwhile because this category has not been advanced for a long time after it was born. I'm at the half way point of my life now, and I do not have any adoration for fashion designers who I used to love and spontaneously I am now having great regard for Steve Jobs and Jonathan Ive. It's a natural turning point in my life. Creating overwhelming comfort in the active life of someone else became much more attractive to me than having the remarkable reputation of being a fashion designer. There is field more exciting than the category I am now facing, if I am able to comfort and enhance the working life of my friends and peers with the garments.
I can define the reasons why the business suit has not been advanced because that sort of attire derives from etiquette and courtesy. Even as time passed, these conventionalities have not been changed or modified drastically. Referencing the last 10 years, the infrastructure of our life has been transmuted completely because of wifi and new electronic devices like the smartphone which is the birth of the “all in device". This changes interacts with the working style, travelling style and of course with the things you carry every day. I am facing the development of the business wear with keen purposefulness.
WHAT ARE SOME CHALLENGES YOU'VE HAD TO FACE SINCE ESTABLISHING TEÄTORA?
For an independent brand like TEÄTORA, I could say that developing the original materials using only the highest technological fibers would be a gamble because of the huge cost of the development, from a business aspect. However TEÄTORA has a faith that our priority has to be the product quality which must be overwhelming - this is most important point of us. We are moving forward with the development of our faith, we face challenges all the time even after 6 years since we were established but as long as we have this faith, we can take on the future. When we develop the complete product, we feel an utmost accomplishment which surpass these difficulties and challenges.
WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO THE TEÄTORA CUSTOMER?
I have never had a thought to produce a product which the customer would like to have. All TEÄTORA products are based on my experiences and stresses that I feel by myself. I discover the concepts, make designs and constructions, then investigate and verify. In general these processes are divided by teams but in the case of TEÄTORA I work on it by myself. TEÄTORA products are born from this method.
There are uncountable options in the field of design, especially fashion forward design, arty design etc… such as a creation. It could be the right option to assimilate the demands and approach wider targets. It would be the smart answer and one of the correct decisions however TEÄTORA does not follow that way. If I explain it drastically, then I'll say TEÄTORA is not for anyone else. It would be ultimately created by my egoism to seek my desire to be comfortable as much as I can and more than anyone. The reason why I am believing this process of the production is that the product which is created by someone's extreme desire strongly attracts me more than the product which is made out of commercial reasons.
WHAT IS MOST IMPORTANT TO YOU, THE DESIGNER?
The most important point to me is that I can be thrilled by myself and dynamically it is beneficial to someone else. For TEÄTORA, being absolutely and overwhelmingly utilitarian is important. I am avoiding being obsessed with the general numerical study and ordinary common knowledge of design without the experience which means that I do caution by myself to not proceed the process having only expectations. I repeat research and verification by myself until I discover the exact equation.
HOW WILL TEÄTORA EVOLVE IN THE FUTURE?
Firstly there are potentialities to develop further by being supported by collaborative companies who can contribute technologically. By investigating the possible materials with the latest technology, I am discovering the chances to move forward and I am thrilled to advance our purpose.
Secondly, TEÄTORA is now working on the development of footwear and bags. As for the bags, we cannot ignore the movement of the cash. Same as the birth of wifi and the smartphone, the environment and the stuff we carry with us, many things are changing with social movements and innovation. I am really thrilled to face the environment change and developing more TEÄTORA products.